How to Price Custom Earring Projects: Collections & Price Lists

I have been working on this all month and I am still not done, but given the insane number of custom orders I get, it is high time that I release some price lists.  As many of you know, quotes can take time.  Here are some reasons.

1. Metal weights differ.  E.g. 14 K gold is 1.3 times as heavy as silver.  So even if I have a casting of an item, if it is not the metal the customer wants I have to look up a conversion table and do the math.

2. Diamond sizes, number, and quality really matter.  If I use 15 1.2mm diamonds, GH/VS, that is a totally different price from using 20 1.3mm EF/VS.  Multiplication takes time, so if the customer asks for one diamond size but then another to save, there many combinations and quotes I can make.  But each takes time so I need to narrow it down or simply ask for a budget.

3. If I don’t actually have the item (i.e. it has to be made from scratch) I have to ESTIMATE.  Yes, I can calculate the metal weight from a CAD file but if no CAD file has been made because the customer has not yet commissioned it – and hence I have to paid to have it made – then I need to guess.  And I am going to guess in my favor so I don’t lose money.  Also, the number of 1.2 mm diamonds needed to surround a 9x7mm center is different from the number of .8mm diamonds needed to surround a 6mm round.  So if the customer doesn’t know what they want and ask for 6 quotes, I can get tied down for 2 hours, and I don’t usually have that kind of time.  I make it if I can, or I just eyeball it. (So if I get frustrated with you, that's why, lol.)

This probably explains why when you go to a jewelry store to get something made you are quoted a high price.  Not only does the jeweler have to cover himself or herself, but also, they have to get paid for the time it takes to get the quotes right and make you happy.  And assuming that many people want estimates and then walk away, more time has to be calculated for the paying customers.

That said, what can you do to save time and do your own math?  Work from existing ideas and get a price list.  From me.  So let me do just that.  Of course each price list also takes time, but here is one with just my silver items, working off of the basics.

Scroll Earrings 5mm

Channel Wire Earring with Extra Diamond

Petal Earrings for 3mm Stone

Hexagon Stud for 3mm Stone

This is my price list for earrings, the most common studs and danglies,  Prices are including setting and polishing but NOT INCLUDING STONES.

Type	Stone Shape	Stone Size	Setting	14 Karat Gold	Sterling or Argentium
Scroll Stud	Round	4mm	4 prong	$150.00	$50.00
Scroll Stud	Round	5mm	4 prong	$170.00	$55.00
Scroll Stud	Round	5mm	6 prong	$190.00	$55.00
Scroll Stud	Round	6mm	4 prong	$200.00	$55.00
Scroll Stud	Round	6mm	6 prong	$230.00	$60.00
Hexagon Stud	Round	3mm	Pave	$180.00	$50.00
Hexagon Stud	Round	4mm	Pave	$240.00	$55.00
Hexagon Stud	Round	5mm	Pave	$240.00	$60.00
Hexagon Stud	Round	6mm	Pave	$300.00	$70.00
Martini Bezel Stud	Round	3mm	Bezel	$130.00	$30.00
Martini Bezel Stud	Round	3.5mm	Bezel	$140.00	NA
Martini Bezel Stud	Round	4mm	Bezel	$150.00	$30.00
Martini Bezel Stud	Round	5mm	Bezel	$180.00	$30.00
Martini Bezel Stud	Round	6mm	Bezel	$240.00	NA
Trillion Prong Petal	Trillion	5mm	Trillion Prong	$250.00	$90.00
Small Flower Stud	Round		Pave	$350.00	NA
Large Flower Stud	Round		Pave	$520.00	NA
Small Flower Dangle With Kite Connector	Round		Pave	$600.00	NA
Kite Dangle	Round	3mm	Pave	$345.00	$70.00
Kite Dangle	Round	4mm	Pave	$420.00	$80.00
Kite Dangle	Round	5mm	Pave	$420.00	$80.00
Petal Dangle	Round	3mm	Pave	$160.00	$70.00
Channel Wire Dangle	Pear or Oval	Any	Channel Wire Earrings	$440.00	NA

Hexagon Danglies with French Hooks

4 Flower Dangly with Petal Accent and Leverbacks

Large Petal Studs

3mm Petal Danglies with Hexagon and Diamond Accent

Cecile Raley Holiday Buying Guide

My assistant Debbie actually put me on to this blog entry.  She thought it would be a good idea to suggest to my customers what they might get from my shop for the holidays.  But I am such a bad gift buyer – I mostly get useful things for people, not gifts with symbolic value.  So my advice may be terrible, lol.  Still, I am going to give it a try.

1. Birthstones: this is the old standby for all holiday jewelry buyers.  But several of my pendants and rings would lend themselves to combos of say, mother’s birthstone and child, or three children, or even mom and dad only.  I prefer designs with uneven numbers of stones (actually everyone does) so I usually end up suggesting that we repeat one birthstone if there are just two people (i.e. mom is the center, and the child goes left and right).  Certain months have a lot of birthstone variety, like January for instance, because there are so many different types of garnets.  Other months (February, which is amethyst) doesn’t leave a lot of choice.  For those months one can just choose different purples (purple spinel, tanzanite).  For birthstone necklaces, I suggest the hexagon designs which I have for one stone, three, and four stone combos.  For rings, any multi-stone ring is good, not so much the halo rings.

5mm Tanzanite in 14K Rose Gold Hexagon Bezel $249.00

Four Stone Rose Gold Hexagon Bezel Pendant with Tourmaline and Apatite $299.00

3 Stone Hexagon Eternity Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold with Spinel and Color Change Garnet $499.00

2. Proposals, friendship rings, etc: men often use holiday gifts to mark a special occasion with their loved one.  Rings are the most standard purchase for that, and I often have to give advice to male buyers (mostly last minute) on those.  I often recommend halo styles, though I ask them to describe their person with words that I can use to suggest jewelry designs: modern, natural (nature), antique, blingy, simple, colorful, etc.  Thinking of someone you buy for in those terms will help you single out what is best for them.

Platinum Silver Cocktail Ring with Tanzanite and White Zircon $379.00

Iolite and Sapphire Halo Ring in Argentium Silver $289.00

3. For the idiosyncratic person: some people just like their gifts their own way.  I am one such person, which is why for this year, I asked my family to buy me a toaster oven.  That way, there are no surprises.  For recipients like me, keep it simple.  Browse through their favorites and buy what they marked, or an ETSY gift certificate (which will be available in my shop this season) - I always have a sale on the 25^th of December so that people can buy something together when they’re sitting “under the tree” so to speak.  Or pick out a pair of gems for them (remember I have a return period too).  And then play together to develop a design. 

4. Cheap: well, as many of you are noticing, my shop isn’t so cheap anymore.  There is a lot more gold inventory for instance.  The reason I make more things in gold is that I simply cannot compete with the overseas market, where assembly, soldering, setting and polishing cost nearly nothing.  I have all my stuff locally made, I supervise every step, and I love working directly with the people who make my ideas into actualities.  Also, interestingly, more of my buyers now buy gold over silver.  But as I phase out of the items that don’t work for me or for my line, I put more things into clearance.  Some of my silver studs and necklaces also cost less (the filigree studs for instance), and I am still addicted to beads, so I am going to try to stock up that section more for the holidays.

Blue Ceylon Spinel 4mm Stud Earrings $68.00

Beaded Turquoise Necklace with Thai Silver Accents and Free Earrings $79.00

Argentium Silver Bypass Ring With Rhodolite Garnet $89.00

Art Deco Reproduction Filigree Ring in Argentium Silver with Purple Spinel $89.00

6mm Rhodolite Garnet Stud Earrings in Argentium Silver $88.00

Simply Apatite, Peridot, Tanzanite, Prehnite and Tsavorite Necklace with Free Earrings $99.00

5. Personal favorites: last but not least, let’s talk about what I would personally recommend.  I love love love the pendants I created that combine hexagon and kite designs.  They look like they’re right out of a 1920s movie except that they’re in color, and they sit beautifully on the neck.  I also like the two half moon pendants I made, the rings on either side of the top of the stone make them sit more securely than the other channel wrapped items.  In terms of rings and dangly earrings, the Gotham line is my favorite, because I like art deco more than art nouveau and I love the old fashioned yet modern look.  I also enjoy that you can get more ring out of those without having to splurge on the expensive halo designs.  My engraver, Alex, continues to amaze me with what he can do with those pieces.  The Gatsby line is now also fully engraved.  And the petal line (with all the sunflower rings) is getting there.  Oval petal pendants and rings are coming out soon, hopefully in time for the holidays (I know I will have one ring with a 9x7 center and 2mm side stones ready in about 10 days).

I’ll leave you with a photo of my “to date” all time favorite piece that I am (with great regret) willing to put up in my shop – mainly because I already splurged on my own Christmas gift which is still in production but I’ll share when it’s done.  This ring features a 2 carat plus Mahenge spinel, 2009 mining date, trillion cut, in a white gold Gatsby design, diamonds on the side, millgrain.  Still thinking about engraving it too. 

Trillion Flower Gatsby Ring in 14 K White Gold with 2+ Carat Mahenge Spinel and Diamonds $2,799.00

Hexagon and Kite Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold with Mahenge and Burmese Spinel $699.00

Trillion Flower Gatsby Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold with Morganite and Diamond $449.00

Half Moon Garnet Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold Channel Setting and Mint Garnet Kite Dangly $599.00

3 Stone Hexagon Eternity Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold with Spinel and Color Change Garnet $499.00

Gatsby Studs for 5mm Trillion Stones, Argentium Silver with Rhodolite Garnet $119.00

Kite Style Aquamarine Earrings in Sterling Silver $119.00

My Collections: What Stays, What Goes, What’s New

As I continue to build my own website, my brand, and of course, develop my personal style, I am working towards collections based on themes.  Now that the holidays are coming up, let me take you through the collections I have right now and also tell you about the projects that are under way.  Suggestions are welcome!

Hexagon Collection: As you can see from my listings, this collection is well under way.  I like this line because it is protective of the stone without being the need to hammer set the gem.  The setting is beaded, which is less forceful on the stone so I don’t have to worry about it getting cracked.  The hexagon and octagon styles also combine really well to make interesting shapes.

Four Stone Rose Gold Hexagon Bezel Pendant with Tourmaline and Apatite

Tourmaline Pendant in Hexagon Bezel with Kite Accent 14 K Rose gold

Scroll Collection: This is probably my oldest line, and it includes the scroll eternity ring and the scroll earring settings.  I also have a 9x6 scroll setting that is good for larger pendants.  I don’t know that I want to do more with this line though.  Prong settings do not seem to be as much in style for rings and pendants, and in general, other than the earrings, I don’t sell scroll settings very much.  I am keeping it though because the earrings are really popular.

4mm Thai Sapphire Studs Set in Rose Gold Scroll Setting

Eternity Band in 14K Rose Gold with Natural Blue Zircon

Contour Collection: This collection is also a carryover.  It includes all the channel wrapped items, which provide a simple and elegant frame for earrings and pendants.  This collection doesn't include rings, for the obvious reasons.  

Pear Shaped Kyanite Pendant Wrapped in 14K Rose Gold with Diamond Accent

Oval Apatite Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold Channel Setting

Mismatched Rhodolite Garnet Dangly Earrings in 14K Rose Gold

Gotham Collection: I am in love with this one.  To me it looks Art Deco but the color and engravings give it very different feel.  This collection includes my Gotham ring and pendants, and I am about to release a larger Gotham ring that takes an 8x6 emerald cut.  I will again carry both an engraved version and one that takes outer stones.  Under this line, I am also adding the pillow ring and pendant because of their edgy shapes.  But neither has sold that much – the pillow ring has actually only sold once (recently).  So I am not sure I should do more with those.

Cushion Cut Gotham Ring in 14 Rose Gold with Mandarin Garnet

Art Deco Style Ring with Mint Garnet and Mahenge Spinel in White Gold

Argentium Silver Cocktail Ring with Rhodolite Garnet and Peacock Spinel

Petal Collection: My other favorite collection, the petal line includes the sunflower rings and pendants, the new earring jackets, the petal earring and the four and five petal pendants.  The Gatsby pendant and ring go here also because they have petals also.  Most of the petal designs will come in an engraved and a regular version (I love the engravings and they allow me to do a halo style without adding stones).  And I am going to add an oval flower ring soon, as well as a sunflower ring for a 7mm center.

Sapphire Earring Jackets

Apatite & Tanzanite in 14K rose gold

Petal Earring with Mint Garnet & Sapphires

Victorian Inspired Two Flower Open Ring in Rose Gold with Merelani Mint Garnet, Chrysoberyl and Mahenge Spinel

I am phasing out most of the simple bezel set styles, but I will periodically offer them as earrings (and I am keeping the five stone ring).  Many bezel rings were created from purchased settings and those designs are fairly common place.  In my shop they don’t get bought very much – again with exception of my multi stone rings.  I already phased out the melted rings.  The twig collection stays because it sells locally.  And I have some odds and ends (halo rings for instance) that are free floating right now.  They sell sometimes, not often, but they are good additions to my stuff.  So for now they will stay in.

I continue to work on more art deco styles – this has come to be my favorite period, I love the edgy components and it reminds me so much of my home of choice: New York City.  I am working on a larger pendant right now, even though larger pieces are heavy in gold and therefore cost prohibitive.  I have another flower ring style coming out soon, and I did a split shank ring for myself (and one customer) that I may adapt into my collection.  It will be for a pear shape.  I’d also like to make some settings for larger stones as I am starting to sell more of those. 

My main inspirations, in case you are wondering, are old jewelry books, antique shows, and eBay.  Though periodically something comes to me out of nowhere; my Gatsby pendant was one such case.  The sunflower ring, too.  All inspiration, I feel, is in the end a mix of things you have seen before, and to get ideas the main thing to do is look around.  I take photos of stuff I see that I like and then it changes in my head into something that fits my personal taste, so that by the end it is no longer recognizable as that original thing (just consider the original  Victorian petal earrings that I had featured in some of my listings – my entire collection came out of that one piece).  It also takes experience of course, you need to know what works and what doesn’t.  My CAD designer, Brandy, has been a great help with that.   

Gotham Pendant in 14 k Rose Gold, Hand Engraved with Emerald Cut Sapphire

Trillion Flower Gatsby Pendant in 14 K Rose Gold with Morganite and Diamond

Engraved Trillion Gatsby Ring with Iolite, Platinum Silver

Gotham Earrings in 14 K Rose Gold, Hand Engraved with Emerald Cut Sapphire

Mahenge Spinel Revisited

I've decided to do another blog entry on Mahenges not only because I am totally obsessed with them but also because I recently got to pick a small batch from a 2009 parcel that my supplier's uncle released from his vault.  The rest of the parcel went overseas but I got some neat stuff.  I'll be listing my pretties piece by piece for the upcoming holiday season.

As you may or may not know, Mahenge spinel, which is only mined in one place in the world (Mahenge, Tanzania) has steadily declined in production in the last year or two.  Estimates range from a decrease between 50 and 75%.  At the same time, demand for this pretty neon-colored gem has increased.  I think it must be the color.  When I wear my Mahenge ring around, people who know nothing about gems comment on it and "want one" - until they find out the price!

1-2 Carat Spinel Parcel

Prices for Mahenges, in fact, have just about quadrupled since I've started buying them 4 years ago.  And if supply stays low, then this isn't going to change anytime soon.  Even Mahenge cabochons now cost more than ever, and cabochon grade rough is often being faceted. 

So what should you expect and look for if you, too, have been infected with Mahenge fever?  Other than high prices that is?  In terms of size, restrain yourself.  The 1-2 carat range is still reasonably good in supply, but anything above 2 carats is tough to come by.  Prices in the 1-2 carat range are between $1200 and $2400 per carat depending on where you go.  Prices in the 2-3 carat range are more than twice that.  Above 3 carats?  Depends.  You'd be lucky to find anything at all.

2-3 Carat Mahenge Spinel

Last July, a young couple approached me that wanted to have a Mahenge for an engagement stone.  3-4 carats it was supposed to be, and flawless.  I took them straight to my supplier's office to pick their own stone (they lived locally and my attempts to memo out what they were looking for failed - nothing was perfect enough).  They sifted through several hundred gems and found not even 10 that had the required size.  None were free from inclusions.  None were perfect.  Nothing suited them in America's largest collection of Mahenge spinels.  Clearly, their expectations were just too high (I still read about their quest periodically on Price Scope, and they say they have been looking for quite some time).

Long story short, inclusions are to be expected in that size and in smaller stones as well (one carat and above, say).  Also, sometimes the cutter maximizes the rough to get better yield, and so you might find a natural in the girdle or a back facet.  That's where the material simply ended and the experienced cutter made the most of it.  These things are not of grave concern and do not affect value or durability.  Only when the gem's appearance and inner glow is diminished should you hesitate.  Because they have such intense color, Mahenges mask their inclusions well, so you can let yourself be guided by your instincts.  Do you keep "seeing" the inclusion?  Is it visible to the naked eye?  Will it be visible after the stone is set?

Another factor that I think you need to be flexible on is cutting.  I don't mean window.  Window is no good.  But some tilt window is to be expected and not all gems will be Portuguese or otherwise precision cut.  Recuts are only recommended if the carat weight can be preserved (so a 2+ carat stone should stay above 2 carats).  I don't mean the cut should be ugly.  On the other hand, you may get a great Mahenge that is not master cut and you may want to keep it that way.  The main thing, in my view, is that the gem faces up well and catches attention.

3-4 Carat Mahenge Spinel, one more peachy, one more violet

That said, there are two characteristics of Mahenges that you should stay away from.  One is washed out color.  A valuable Mahenge should be neon.  The most desirable is the straight neon pink.  But equally expensive is a reddish or peachy color.  The important factor is simply that the gem should be saturated , open colored and lively.  Because Mahenges are somewhat ligher stones (compared, say, to darker Tsavorites) you should not see much extinction, if any.

The second characteristic that I discourage is cloudiness.  I've seen many (many many), literally thousands of Mahenges at this point.  And sometimes they are cloudy - or sort of "dead" looking.  I spot it right away now but in the beginning I didn't always see it.  You need to look at some gems to get experience of this, but in the long run, that's worth it because cloudiness tends to bother people.  In the larger sizes, cloudy gems still tend to be expensive, and if the stone is extremely strong colored, it can sometimes be a tiny bit cloudy.  But more than that is no good.  The crisper the better.   With a hint of velvet maybe.  Not more than that.

Happy hunting! 

Buying Opals, Pro’s and Cons

I do not carry a lot of opal jewelry in my shop, but with the month of opal coming up, I can share with you my experience with this gem.  As you know, opal is a very soft stone and that makes it hard to work with – one reason I don’t carry it much.  Bezel settings look nicest, yet prongs are safest if you don’t want to crack the gem or expand an inclusion to the surface.  You need an experienced setter, especially if you work with harder metals like white gold.  Silver is far easier.  One trick that I have used is to backset the gem, where prongs are gently folded down behind it.  I have also used glue to hold down the stone, but the problem with glue is that the gem can come loose over time and fall out.  Or the glue dissolves in jewelry cleaner (especially if acetone is involved).

Currently, opals are mainly mined in two locations: Australia and Ethiopia.  But opals are also found elsewhere, i.e. Mexico and Tanzania.  Most of those do not have play of color though, whereas Australian and Ethiopian opals exhibit what we think of as typical in terms of color: blue, green, yellow, and if you are lucky, some red (that’s the rarest color).

Boulder Opal Pair

I personally prefer Australian opal.  There are several reasons for this.  One is simply that I think they are prettier, especially the boulder opals which already come with their natural sandstone backing that brings out the color.  The deeper reason is durability.  Many Ethiopian opals tend to crack over time as the moisture goes out (opals are 5% water).  And soaking them doesn’t help, in fact, it can make it worse because as the stone dries, it cracks even more.  Over time, some Ethiopian opals also seem to lose their play of color and turn white.  That may be because they dry out, I don’t know.  Lastly, prices of Ethiopian opals have increased drastically, and I frankly don’t see the point of paying that much money for something that doesn’t last.

Ethiopian Opal Beads

Australian opals also have problems.  There are a lot of set doublets on the market (not always identified as such), and many opals are smoked to make their body color darker and bring out the color.  This can affect durability as well.  Opal prices have gone up but at least the Aussie prices have stabilized in the last couple of years.  I love any type of Boulder Opal (I like Koroit but I love the ones from Queensland).  It has the most color, a strong sandstone back comes in nice sizes for good prices.  You can look on Etsy but also at Opalauctions.com, and get pretty pieces shipped directly from Australia.

When you care for you opal, definitely stay away from any kind of harsh jewelry cleaners.  Use soap and water, a baby toothbrush (gently), and leave it at that.  Don’t expect your opal to become a family heirloom – most don’t last that long – and make sure that you don’t expose it to too many chances to crack it.  No gardening, no cooking, with opals rings! 

Boulder Opals

Boulder Opals

Huge Boulder Opal