From Rough Stone to Cut Stone: Part I

The journey from rough mineral to finished faceted gem has always fascinated me.  As a relative novice in the area, there are mostly surprises, but even the more seasoned cutter or gem expert can’t always predict the outcome.  On average one loses 60-80% of the gemstone material during cutting. Sometimes more, sometimes less.  One has to decide where the cleavages are that will open up during cutting, and one has to determine where the culet and table should be located.  The properties of the gem itself usually dictate this, though opinions on how to cut often vary nevertheless.

And so, when I saw a parcel of rough Winza sapphires at the Gem and Mineral show in Edison, NJ, this month, I decided to have some fun with it.

Winza Sapphire

In this little video, you can meet Don Thomson from Quest Minerals.  Don specializes in Tanzanian goods and he is also a gem cutter.  I was fascinated by his collection of crystals and rough as you can see.

Meet Don Thompson and his collection of gems and minerals.

As you can see, I discovered the parcel of sapphires and another of rubies at the very end.  With my curiosity peaked, I first looked at some pieces with a loupe, and then recorded a little video using my newly discovered phone scope (you can buy it at safepub.com). 

Parcel of Winza rubies magnified through a phone scope.

Roberta G. a customer or mine, was with me when we played with the rough.  I first bought a nice zebra striped one – I am thinking of keeping that piece more or less as is but polishing it so you can see the stripes better.  Then I started to look at each piece with a strong flash light to see what’s inside.  Roberta recorded me as I went through the parcel piece by piece.

                             Yvonne examines a parcel of Winza sapphires for cuttable material.

Then I selected a few pieces – getting them all was going to be expensive.  Don explained to me how to cut one of them and I’m very curious about the outcome.

                           Don Thompson explains how to cut a particular piece of Winza sapphire.

Next month, I will be sending some of the pieces to India for cutting.  Others will stay here.  I may slice one, and I may just have another roughly faceted by a local friend.  Roberta wants one piece faceted as well.  We don't think that any of the material is going to come out very clean, but it will be fun to do.

I will keep you posted how the adventure ends.

New Price List Available for Rings

Here is another price list for you.  This one is for all my rings.  Or most of them anyway... not all of these rings are my own designs, so when they are not, they are not included here.   Remember, these prices do not include gemstones because the prices vary too much.  

Here are some additional notes, pretty much the same notes as last time.

1. I can cast in 10 K gold also but you do not save that much money when you do.  Labor is the same, gold is about 30% less (because part of the casting price is casting labor).  I didn’t list any of these prices for that reason but the savings averages out to something like 10%.  Ask me for individual quotes.

2. My casting service offers almost any metal, more than I can list individually: 10K yellow and rose, 14K rose, yellow, white, 18K rose, yellow, white, 18K White Palladium, Platinum, Platinum Silver, Argentium Silver, Bronze, 22K yellow.  Even brass and copper are available.  But as you know, the more gems are being set, the more expensive the piece, so for a single stone, I can see doing it in silver, but for multi-stone rings, you might as well invest in the gold.  You'll have a more valuable piece that way.

3. When you are considering custom orders, please use this list to get a first idea because some days I am so busy I lack the manpower to get all the quoting and photos done.  And my markup does not include all the time that is used for service.  The reason wholesalers have a smaller markup is not JUST to leave room for retailers.  It is also because they expect to sell more pieces and have less to no service costs.  I have wholesale markup, and I (try to) accommodate retail service.  Technically the formula doesn’t mix.  I try anyway!  Unless I start manufacturing overseas (no way!) I will have to compete with lower prices for finished goods.  It’s hard to do everything here, pay high labor costs, and offer good prices to you at the same time.  I’m not complaining, but I want to disclose how things are on my end so that you get a better sense of what to expect. 

	Description	Stone Size	Setting Style	Collection	14K	SS
1	Round Halo Ring	4mm, .8mm	prong	Classic	$445.00	$290.00
2	Cushion Halo Ring	6 mm, .8mm	prong	Classic	$545.00	$310.00
3	Halo Wedding Band	.8mm	prong	Classic	$345.00	$200.00
4	Fishtail Ring	6mm, .8mm	prong	Classic	$340.00	$125.00
5	Scalloped Halo Ring	7x5mm, 1.2mm	prong, pave	Classic	$515.00	$315.00
6	Antique Large Cluster Ring	7mm, 3.5mm	prong, pave	Classic	$650.00	$245.00
7	5 Stone Prong Ring	5mm, 3.5mm, 2.5mm	prong	Classic	$400.00	$170.00
8	Five Stone Bezel Ring	4.3mm, 3mm, 2mm	bezel	Contour	$315.00	$155.00
9	Pillow Ring	7x5mm, 2mm, 1mm	prong, pave	Gotham	$600.00	$280.00
10	Square 9 Stone Ring	2.5mm, 3mm	pave	Gotham	$465.00	$205.00
11	Small Gotham Ring Engraved	6x4mm	prong	Gotham	$385.00	$120.00
12	Large Gotham Ring with Sidestones	8x6mm, 1.2mm	prong	Gotham	$740.00	$320.00
13	Large Gotham Ring Engraved	8x6mm	prong	Gotham	$490.00	$120.00
14	Empire Daisy Ring Engraved	5mm	prong	Gotham	$500.00	$145.00
15	Antique 9 Stone Ring Square Style	3mm, 2.5mm	pave	Gotham	$545.00	$215.00
16	Antique 9 Stone Ring Diamond Style	3mm, 2.5mm	pave	Gotham	$620.00	$215.00
17	Marquis Art Deco Ring Engraved	10x5mm	prong	Gotham	$490.00	$95.00
18	3 Stone Hexagon Ring	5mm, 3mm	pave	Hexagon	$385.00	$170.00
19	Oval Hexagon 3 Stone Ring		pave	Hexagon	$430.00	$180.00
20	5 Stone Oval Center Hexagon Ring	6x4mm, 3mm, 2mm	pave	Hexagon	$360.00	$140.00
21	5 Stone Round Center Hexagon Ring	5mm, 3mm, 2mm	pave	Hexagon	$425.00	$210.00
22	Solitaire Hexagon Ring	5mm	pave	Hexagon	$375.00	$128.00
23	Octagon Ring East West	7x4.5mm	pave	Hexagon	$430.00	$120.00
24	Flower Eternity Band	1mm	pave	Petal	$480.00	$195.00
25	Sunflower Ring 6mm Center	6mm, 1.2mm	prong, pave	Petal	$440.00	$205.00
26	Sunflower Ring 5mm Center	5mm, 2mm	prong, pave	Petal	$485.00	$225.00
27	Two Flower Ring	3mm, 2mm	pave	Petal	$505.00	$250.00
28	Trillion Gatsby Ring	8mm	prong, pave	Petal	$560.00	$240.00
29	Engraved Flower Petal Ring	5mm	prong	Petal	$385.00	$120.00
30	Trillion Gatsby Ring Engraved	8mm	prong	Petal	$360.00	$115.00
31	Empire Daisy Ring	5mm, 1mm	bezel, pave	Petal	$910.00	$495.00
32	Sunflower Ring with 7mm Center	7mm, 2mm	prong, pave	Petal	$500.00	$230.00
33	Oval Sunflower Ring with Sidestones	8x6mm, 2mm	prong, pave	Petal	$520.00	$240.00
34	Camellia Ring with Sidestones	5mm, 2mm, .8mm	prong, pave	Petal	$470.00	$210.00
35	Large Oval Sunflower Ring Engraved	9x7mm	prong	Petal	$330.00	$120.00
36	Camellia Ring Engraved	5mm	prong	Petal	$375.00	$95.00
37	Smaller Oval Sunflower Ring Engraved	7.5 x 5mm	pave	Petal	$350.00	$95.00
38	Eternity Scroll Band with Bezels	1.2mm	bezel	Scroll	$330.00	$135.00

CLASSIC COLLECTION

1) Round Halo Ring

2)Cushion Halo Ring

3)Halo Wedding Band

4)Fishtail Ring

5)Scalloped Halo Ring

6)Antique Large Cluster Ring

7) 5 Stone Prong Ring

CONTOUR COLLECTION

8)5 Stone Bezel Ring

GOTHAM COLLECTION

10)Square 9 Stone Ring

9) Pillow Ring

11) Small Gotham Ring Engraved

12) Large Gotham Ring with Sidestones

13) Large Gotham Ring Engraved

16) Antique 9 Stone Ring Diamond Style

17) Marquis Art Deco Ring Engraved

HEXAGON

18) 3 Stone Hexagon Ring

19) Oval Hexagon 3 Stone Ring

20) 5 Stone Oval Center Hexagon Ring

21) 5 Stone Round Center Hexagon Ring

22) Solitaire Hexagon Ring

23) Octagon Ring East West

PETAL

24) Flower Eternity Band

25) Sunflower Ring 6mm Center

26) Sunflower Ring 5mm Center

27) Two Flower Ring

28) Trillion Gatsby Ring

29) Engraved Flower Petal Ring

30) Trillion Gatsby Ring Engraved

31) Empire Daisy Ring

32) Sunflower Ring with 7mm Center

34) Camellia Ring with Sidestones

35)Lg Sunflower Oval Ring Engraved

36) Camellia Ring Engraved

37) Smaller Oval Sunflower Ring Engraved

38) Eternity Scroll Band with Bezels