Info About Custom Orders & Pricing

Info about Custom Orders and Pricing

Since almost half of my business consists of custom orders, here is some info I have assembled from several of my blog entries to help guide you through the process.

Below you will find my price list for rings, pendants and earrings currently available (I am always updating this list so ask me if something's missing).

Please read these notes before you consult the list:

1. NONE OF THE PRICES INCLUDE GEMS AND ALL THE GEMS USED MUST BE PROPRIETARY.  I DON'T WORK WITH GEMS THAT I HAVE NOT SOURCED. This is due to liability issues as gems have to travel and stay with setters, jewelers etc and they can break.  If you like, I can make a piece for you and you can have it set elsewhere. 

2. I can cast in other metals (e.g 10 - 22K gold).  Please ask for quotes for now, until I have time to add all these prices to the lists. Labor costs are the same regardless of metal used, meaning it doesn't make much sense to order a piece in silver that has a lot of setting labor involved.  Also, metal weights differ, so the same piece in silver weighs less than the same piece in 14, 18 or 22 K gold.

3. Leverbacks, posts, backs and bails, are not something I cast.  I buy those.  The options here are limited to sterling silver, 14 K Yellow and White Gold, some 18 K.  Pink gold is very limited (I can get posts, backs, leverbacks, French wire).

4. If you’d like to make a pendant into an earring, multiply by two and add a little for ear wire.  Ear wire is more than a bail unless we use something simple.  So if you add lever backs but subtract the bail, you may add about $100 or so.  Less if it is a larger bail of course. 

5. Earring and pendant components can be combined to make bigger pieces. 

6. Diamond sizes, number, and quality really matter to pricing.  If I use 15 1.2mm diamonds, GH/VS, that is a totally different price from using 20 1.3mm EF/VS.  You'd help me out the most if you have an idea of what you would like and what size.  The calculations take time, and I often don't have it.  I work with wholesale prices so I don't have as much money left over to pay for someone to assist me with customer support.

7. Prices for CAD work differ based on how long the model takes to make but the average fee is $200.  Gold weights differ and I will have to give you estimated prices only.  Also, the number of 1.2 mm diamonds needed to surround a 9x7mm center is different from the number of .8mm diamonds needed to surround a 6mm round.  

8. Unless you request otherwise, I own the rights to all CAD files and will use them in my shop if the design complements my collection (i.e. if I make a hexagon setting for a different stone size). 

If you would like to try our new software to design your own earrings or pendants, you can go to our website here:  Cecile Raley Designs on Shopify

Cecile Raley Design's Price List Catalog

Please note that we are in the process of updating our prices. The prices on this page are correct. The catalog has not yet been updated so please refer to this page for correct costs.

Cecile Raley Design's Price List Catalog

   Eternity Rings

We now offer a wide variety of colored melee stones and have designed an exciting new range of eternity bands to enable you to use them to create your own unique piece of jewelry.

You can choose from a full eternity band, meaning that the stones circle the whole ring, or a half eternity band. We also offer 4 different stone sizes, 5 different metals and 2 styles of stone setting - scoop or fishtail. Here are pictures of each style:

Fishtail: 

Scoop: 

The number of stones required for your ring depends on the size of the stones you choose and your ring size.  The table below illustrates pricing and numbers of stones  required for a size 7 ring, so this will give you  an idea of what you will need for your own particular size. Please note that the cost includes the metal, setting and polishing but does not include stones. 

FULL ETERNITY RINGS IN SIZE 7

	Description	Number of Stones	Sterling Silver	Platinum Silver	14K	18K	Platinum
1	Fishtail – 1.5mm stones	41	$900.00	$930.00	$1,070.00	$1,155.00	$1,300.00
2	Scoop – 1.5mm stones	41	$695.00	$725.00	$865.00	$950.00	$1,100.00
3	Fishtail – 2mm stones	31	$700.00	$740.00	$910.00	$1,015.00	$1,205.00
4	Scoop – 2mm stones	31	$545.00	$585.00	$760.00	$860.00	$1,050.00
5	Fishtail – 2.5mm stones	25	$585.00	$740.00	$915.00	$1.015.00	$1,205.00
6	Scoop – 2.5mm stones	25	$545.00	$585.00	$760.00	$860.00	$1,050.00
7	Fishtail – 3mm stones	21	$505.00	$570.00	$860.00	$1.035.00	$1,355.00
8	Scoop – 3mm stones	21	$400.00	$465.00	$755.00	$930.00	$1,250.00

H

HALF BAND ETERNITY RINGS IN SIZE 7

	Description	Number of Stones	Sterling Silver	Platinum Silver	14K	18K	Platinum
1	Fishtail – 1.5mm stones	21	$500.00	$530.00	$670.00	$755.00	$905.00
2	Scoop – 1.5mm stones	21	$395.00	$425.00	$565.00	$650.00	$800.00
3	Fishtail – 2mm stones	16	$400.00	$440.00	$615.00	$715.00	$905.00
4	Scoop – 2mm stones	16	$320.00	$360.00	$535.00	$635.00	$825.00
5	Fishtail – 2.5mm stones	13	$345.00	$400.00	$650.00	$805.00	$1,080.00
6	Scoop – 2.5mm stones	13	$280.00	$335.00	$585.00	$740.00	$1,015.00
7	Fishtail – 3mm stones	11	$305.00	$370.00	$660.00	$835.00	$1,155.00
8	Scoop – 3mm stones	11	$250.00	$315.00	$605.00	$780.00	$1,100.00

Price List for Rings

CLASSIC

 CONTOUR

GOTHAM

HEXAGON

 PETAL

SCROLL

#	Description	Stone Size	Setting Style	Collection	14K	SS	Platinum Silver	Platinum
1	Round Halo Ring	4mm, .8mm	Prong	Classic	$460.00	$310.00	$330.00	$690.00
2	Halo Wedding Band	.8mm	Prong	Classic	$370.00	$220.00	$240.00	$560.00
3	Cushion Halo Ring	6 mm, .8mm	Prong	Classic	$560.00	$330.00	$360.00	$930.00
4	Scalloped Halo Ring	7x5mm, 1.2mm	Prong, Pave	Classic	$530.00	$330.00	$360.00	$850.00
	Larger Scalloped Halo Ring	8x6mm center, 18 x 1.3-1.4mm sidestones	Prong, Pave	Classic	$680.00	$430.00	$470.00	$1,070.00
5	Engraved Antique Style Halo Ring	6mm	Bezel	Classic	$420.00	$140.00	$180.00	$880.00
6	Antique Style Halo Ring  with Sidestones	6mm, 1mm	Prong, Pave	Classic	$630.00	$330.00	$380.00	$1,100.00
7	Fishtail Ring	6mm, .8mm	Prong	Classic	$370.00	$150.00	$180.00	$720.00
8	Seahorse Ring	6mm	Prong	Classic	$470.00	$150.00	$190.00	$990.00
9	Antique Large Cluster Ring	7mm, 3.5mm	Prong, Pave	Classic	$670.00	$260.00	$310.00	$1,350.00
10	5 Stone Prong Ring	5mm, 3.5mm, 2.5mm	Prong	Classic	$380.00	$220.00	$240.00	$590.00
11	Grace Ring	6mm, 10x2mm inner row, 12 x1mm outer row	Prong, Pave	Classic	$920.00	$540.00	$600.00	$1,510.00
12	Elizabeth Ring Engraved	7x5mm	Prong	Classic	$500.00	$170.00	$210.00	$1,000.00
13	Elizabeth Ring with Sidestones	7x5mm pear center, 16 x 1.5-2mm outer stones	Prong, Pave	Classic	$800.00	$340.00	$420.00	$1,500.00
14	Five Stone Bezel Ring	4.3mm, 3mm, 2mm	Bezel	Contour	$320.00	$170.00	$200.00	$560.00
15	Pillow Ring	7x5mm, 2mm, 1mm	Prong, Pave	Contour	$610.00	$300.00	$340.00	$1,120.00
16	Small Gotham Ring Engraved	6x4mm	Prong	Gotham	$410.00	$140.00	$180.00	$850.00
17	Small Gotham Ring with Sidestones	6x4mm, 1mm	Prong, Pave	Gotham	$540.00	$240.00	$280.00	$990.00
18	Large Gotham Ring Engraved	8x6mm	Prong	Gotham	$510.00	$140.00	$190.00	$1,120.00
19	Large Gotham Ring with Sidestones	8x6mm, 1mm	Prong	Gotham	$760.00	$340.00	$400.00	$1,450.00
20	Antique 9 Stone Ring Square Style	3mm, 2.5mm	Pave	Gotham	$560.00	$230.00	$270.00	$1,100.00
21	Antique 9 Stone Ring Diamond Style	3mm, 2.5mm	Pave	Gotham	$630.00	$230.00	$280.00	$1,300.00
22	Marquis Art Deco Ring Engraved	10x5mm	Prong	Gotham	$540.00	$110.00	$170.00	$1,190.00
23	Marquis Fan Ring	8x4mm, 1mm (optional)	Bezel	Gotham	$320.00	$130.00	$170.00	$610.00
24	Empire Daisy Ring Engraved	5mm	Bezel	Gotham	$540.00	$130.00	$190.00	$1,230.00
25	Empire Daisy Ring with Sidestones	5mm, 1mm	Bezel, Pave	Gotham	$930.00	$510.00	$550.00	$1,620.00
26	Edwardian Ring	5mm	Pave	Gotham	$290.00	$120.00	$150.00	$560.00
27	Edwardian Ring with Sidestones	5mm, 1.2mm	Pave	Gotham	$340.00	$170.00	$190.00	$580.00
28	Oval Center Edwardian Ring Engraved (7x6mm)	7x6mm	Pave	Gotham	$370.00	$120.00	$160.00	$750.00
29	Oval Center Edwardian Ring with Sidestones (7x6mm)	7x6mm, 6x1.5mm sidestones	Pave	Gotham	$450.00	$200.00	$230.00	$820.00
30	Oval Center Edwardian Ring Engraved (7x5mm)	7x5mm	Pave	Gotham	$370.00	$120.00	$160.00	$740.00
31	Oval Center Edwardian Ring with Sidestones (7x5mm)	7x5mm, 6x1.5mm sidestones	Pave	Gotham	$450.00	$200.00	$230.00	$820.00
32	Small 5 Stone Baguette Ring	5x3mm, 3mm & 2mm sidestones	Pave	Gotham	$380.00	$150.00	$190.00	$730.00
33	5 Stone Baguette Ring	6x4mm, 4mm & 3.5mm sidestones	Pave	Gotham	$440.00	$180.00	$210.00	$840.00
34	Double Trillion Cocktail Ring Engraved	2x5mm trillions	Bezel	Gotham	$520.00	$120.00	$180.00	$1,130.00
35	Cleo Ring Engraved	6x4mm marquis	Prong	Gotham	$630.00	$200.00	$260.00	$1,300.00
36	Cleo Ring with Sidestones	6x4mm marquis, 24x1mm sidestones	Prong, Pave	Gotham	$945.00	$520.00	$580.00	$1,630.00
37	3 Stone Hexagon Ring	5mm, 3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$400.00	$190.00	$220.00	$750.00
38	Oval Hexagon 3 Stone Ring	7x5mm, 3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$450.00	$200.00	$240.00	$850.00
39	3 Stone Hexagon Ring Oval and Round (4mm center)	4mm, 4x3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$390.00	$160.00	$200.00	$740.00
40	3 Stone Hexagon Ring Oval & Round (5mm Center)	5mm, 4x3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$400.00	$180.00	$210.00	$720.00
41	3 Stone Hexagon Ring Oval & Round (7mm Center)	7mm, 4x3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$630.00	$280.00	$330.00	$1,160.00
42	5 Stone Oval Center Hexagon Ring	6x4mm, 3mm, 2mm	Pave	Hexagon	$430.00	$200.00	$250.00	$750.00
43	5 Stone Round Center Hexagon Ring	5mm, 3mm, 2mm	Pave	Hexagon	$450.00	$230.00	$260.00	$790.00
44	5 Hexagon Zig Zag Ring	N/A	N/A	Hexagon	$240.00	$100.00	$130.00	$650.00
45	Solitaire Hexagon Ring	5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$390.00	$150.00	$180.00	$790.00
46	Solitaire Hexagon Ring with Sidestones	5mm, 6x1mm optional sidestones	Prong, Pave	Hexagon	$500.00	$230.00	$270.00	$910.00
47	Octagon Ring East West	7x4.5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$450.00	$140.00	$180.00	$960.00
48	Hexagon Eternity Band	2-3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$480.00	$240.00	$270.00	$830.00
49	Flower Eternity Band	1mm-1.2mm	Pave	Petal	$530.00	$210.00	$250.00	$830.00
50	Sunflower Ring with 5mm Center	5mm, 1.7-2mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$500.00	$250.00	$280.00	$920.00
51	Sunflower Ring with 6mm Center	6mm, 1.2mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$460.00	$220.00	$260.00	$830.00
52	Sunflower Ring with 7mm Center	7mm, 1.3mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$520.00	$250.00	$290.00	$950.00
53	Smaller Oval Sunflower Ring Engraved	7.5 x 5mm	Pave	Petal	$350.00	$115.00	$165.00	$690.00
54	Large Oval Sunflower Ring Engraved	9x7mm	Prong	Petal	$350.00	$140.00	$190.00	$690.00
55	Smaller Oval Sunflower Ring with Sidestones	7.5x5mm, 2mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$540.00	$260.00	$300.00	$990.00
56	Engraved Sunflower Petal Ring	5mm	Prong	Petal	$410.00	$140.00	$170.00	$840.00
57	Two Flower Ring	3mm, 2mm	Pave	Petal	$520.00	$270.00	$300.00	$930.00
	Large Two Flower Ring	2x3.5mm, 10x2mm	Pave	Petal	$640.00	$310.00	$350.00	$1,130.00
58	Trillion Gatsby Ring Engraved	8mm,1mm-1.5mm	Prong	Petal	$380.00	$130.00	$170.00	$770.00
59	Trillion Gatsby Ring with Sidestones	8mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$575.00	$250.00	$300.00	$1,110.00
60	Camellia Ring Engraved	5mm	Prong	Petal	$390.00	$130.00	$170.00	$810.00
61	Oval Camellia Ring Engraved	8x6mm	Prong	Petal	$580.00	$130.00	$190.00	$1,330.00
62	Camellia Ring with Sidestones	5mm, 1.7mm- 2mm, .8mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$510.00	$250.00	$280.00	$930.00
63	Larger Round Camellia Ring with Sidestones	6 or 7mm center stone, 8x1.7-2mm (8x1mm - optional +$100)	Prong, Pave	Petal	$590.00	$240.00	$290.00	$1,130.00
64	Larger Oval Camellia Ring with Sidestones	8x6mm, 8x1.5mm (8x1mm - optional +$100)	Pave, Prong	Petal	$680.00	$250.00	$310.00	$1,340.00
	Smaller Oval Camellia Ring with Sidestones	7x5 mm center, 1st row - 10x1.8mm, 2nd row - 10 x 1.3mm	Pave, Prong	Petal	$920.00	$470.00	$530.00	$1,600.00
65	Large Double Prong Oval Camellia Ring	10x8mm	Pave, Prong	Petal	$810.00	$340.00	$410.00	$1,600.00
66	Pear Shaped Petal Ring	7x5mm, .8mm, 1.5mm	Prong	Petal	$530.00	$330.00	$360.00	$830.00
67	Pear Shaped Ring Engraved	7x5mm	Prong	Petal	$320.00	$120.00	$150.00	$620.00
68	Marguerite Ring	7mm center stone, 8x 4x3mm ovals, 8 x 1.5mm outer stones	Prong	Petal	$810.00	$330.00	$400.00	$1,550.00
69	Rosette Ring	7mm center stone, 8x 4x3mm ovals, 8 x 1.5mm outer stones	Prong, Pave	Petal	$820.00	$330.00	$400.00	$1,590.00
70	Double Petal Halo Marquis Ring	5.5x2.5mm marquis, 6x1.5mm, 6x1mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$600.00	$330.00	$370.00	$1,000.00
71	Dahlia Ring	3.90 x 3.55 center, 8x1.6mm, 8x1mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$870.00	$370.00	$440.00	$1,660.00
72	Juliette Ring	1x5mm, 10x1 outer, 10x2 middle, 10x1.5 inner	Prong, Pave	Petal	$1,030.00	$590.00	$650.00	$1,720.00
73	Small Lily Ring with Sidestones	3.5mm center, 4 x 3mm, 4x 1.5mm	Bezel, Pave	Petal	$720.00	$320.00	$380.00	$1,340.00
	Small Lilly Ring Engraved	3.5mm center	Bezel	Petal	$570.00	$170.00	$220.00	$1,190.00
75	Large Flower Cocktail Ring	7mm center, 8x2.5mm /20x2mm/6x.8mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$1,180.00	$590.00	$670.00	$2,090.00
76	Eternity Scroll Band with Bezels	1-1.2mm	Bezel	Scroll	$350.00	$160.00	$180.00	$650.00

Price list for Pendants

CLASSIC

GOTHAM

HEXAGON

PETAL

SCROLL

#	Description	Stone Size	Setting Style	Collection	14K	SS	Platinum Silver	Platinum
1	Scalloped Flower Pendant	3.5mm center, 1.5mm sides, 2mm top	Bezel, Pave	Classic	$420.00	$240.00	$260.00	$590.00
2	Oval Scalloped Pendant	7x5mm, 1.2mm	Prong, Pave	Classic	$430.00	$290.00	$310.00	$570.00
3	Elizabeth Pendant	7x5mm	Prong	Classic	$300.00	$110.00	$130.00	$490.00
4	Elizabeth Pendant with Sidestones	7x5mm, 16 x 1.5-2mm	Prong, Pave	Classic	$520.00	$330.00	$350.00	$710.00
5	Pillow Pendant with Sidestones	9x7mm, 2mm, 1mm	Prong, Pave	Gotham	$460.00	$270.00	$290.00	$670.00
6	Large Gotham Pendant with Sidestones	8x6, 1mm	Pave, Prong	Gotham	$460.00	$310.00	$330.00	$590.00
7	Small Gotham Pendant with Sidestones	6x4, 1mm	Pave, Prong	Gotham	$360.00	$240.00	$260.00	$450.00
8	Large Gotham Pendant Engraved	8x6mm	Prong	Gotham	$260.00	$110.00	$130.00	$420.00
9	Small Gotham Pendant Engraved	6x4mm	Prong	Gotham	$220.00	$110.00	$130.00	$330.00
10	Art Deco Circle Pendant with Gemstones on Outer Rim Rather Than Engraving	1.5mm	Pave	Gotham	$980.00	$620.00	$670.00	$1,400.00
11	Art Deco Circle Pendant - Engraved	1.5mm	Pave	Gotham	$760.00	$410.00	$450.00	$1,180.00
12	Marquis Fan Pendant Engraved	8x4mm	Bezel	Gotham	$290.00	$110.00	$130.00	$460.00
13	Marquis Eternity Necklace with Sidestones	8x4mm mm center, 8x1mm	Prong, Pave	Gotham	$570.00	$320.00	$340.00	$750.00
14	9 Stone Pendant	3mm, 2.5mm	Pave	Gotham	$480.00	$210.00	$240.00	$780.00
15	Ava Necklace	5x3mm, 3x2mm, 3.5x1.5mm	Bezel	Gotham	$490.00	$270.00	$290.00	$640.00
16	7x5mm Oval Stone Octagon Pendant	7x5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$260.00	$140.00	$160.00	$350.00
17	8x6mm Oval Stone Octagon Pendant	8x6mm	Pave	Hexagon	$280.00	$140.00	$160.00	$390.00
18	6mm Round Bezel Hexagon Pendant	6mm RD	Pave	Hexagon	$230.00	$120.00	$130.00	$300.00
19	4x3mm Round 4 Stone Hexagon Pendant	4x3mm RD	Pave	Hexagon	$270.00	$150.00	$160.00	$350.00
20	3 Stone Hexagon Pendant - 3x4mm Rds	3x4mm RD	Pave	Hexagon	$280.00	$150.00	$170.00	$390.00
21	Oval with Two Rounds Hexagon Necklace	4x3mm/, 3mm RD	Pave	Hexagon	$240.00	$130.00	$160.00	$320.00
22	Hexagon Halo Pendant	6mm	Pave	Hexagon	$370.00	$150.00	$180.00	$600.00
23	Victorian 4 Petal Flower Pendant	3.5mm, 3mm	Pave	Petal	$290.00	$130.00	$150.00	$440.00
24	Victorian 5 Petal Flower  Pendant	3.5mm, 3mm	Pave	Petal	$260.00	$140.00	$160.00	$370.00
25	5 Petal Victorian Pendant Engraved	3mm	Bezel	Petal	$200.00	$90.00	$100.00	$310.00
26	5mm Center Stone Sunflower Pendant	5mm/ 1.5mm	Pave, Prong	Petal	$380.00	$230.00	$250.00	$510.00
27	6mm Center Stone Sunflower Pendant	1x 6mm, 8x up to 1.5mm-2	Pave, Prong	Petal	$350.00	$210.00	$230.00	$490.00
28	Small Oval Sunflower Pendant with Sidestones	7.5x5mm, 1.5-2mm	Pave, Prong	Petal	$435.00	$250.00	$270.00	$620.00
29	Small Oval Sunflower Pendant Engraved	7.5x5mm	Prong	Petal	$320.00	$110.00	$130.00	$570.00
30	Large Oval Sunflower Pendant with Sidestones	9x7, 2mm	Pave, Prong	Petal	$510.00	$250.00	$280.00	$800.00
31	Large Oval Sunflower Pendant Engraved	9x7	Prong, Pave	Petal	$300.00	$120.00	$140.00	$510.00
32	Engraved 8 Petal Sunflower with 5mm Stone	5mm	Prong	Petal	$320.00	$110.00	$130.00	$570.00
33	Gatsby Trillion Pendant with Basket & Sidestones	8mm, 1mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$410.00	$230.00	$260.00	$590.00
34	Gatsby Trillion Pendant Engraved	8mm	Prong	Petal	$250.00	$120.00	$130.00	$370.00
35	Camellia Pendant with Round Center Stone	5or 6mm, 2mm, .8mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$500.00	$310.00	$330.00	$670.00
36	Large Engraved Oval Camellia Pendant with Sidestones	8x6mm, 1.5mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$580.00	$310.00	$340.00	$880.00
37	Large Engraved Oval Camellia Pendant	9x7mm	Prong	Petal	$380.00	$110.00	$140.00	$680.00
38	Round Camellia Pendant Engraved	5mm	Prong	Petal	$270.00	$110.00	$120.00	$430.00
39	Large Round Camellia Pendant Engraved	6mm	Prong	Petal	$290.00	$120.00	$140.00	$470.00
40	Pear Shaped Setting Engraved	7x5mm	Prong	Petal	$260.00	$120.00	$140.00	$400.00
41	Pear Shaped Setting with Stones	7x5mm, .8mm, 1.5mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$450.00	$310.00	$330.00	$560.00
42	Engraved Larger Pear Pendant	9x7mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$260.00	$115.00	$135.00	$445.00
43	Marquis Pendant with Leaves/Petals	8x4mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$380.00	$240.00	$250.00	$520.00
44	Tudor Pendant	7mm, 2mm, 3mm	Prong, Pave	Petal	$990.00	$500.00	$560.00	$1,570.00
45	Trillium Slider Pendant	3x2mm	Pave	Petal	$240.00	$140.00	$150.00	$310.00
46	Small Lily Pendant with Sidestones	3.5mm round, 4 x 3mm, 4x 1.5mm	Bezel, Pave	Petal	$500.00	$310.00	$330.00	$690.00
47	Small Lily Pendant Engraved	3.5mm round	Bezel	Petal	$340.00	$150.00	$170.00	$520.00
48	Penelope Setting with Oval Stone	6x4mm oval	Prong	Petal	$390.00	$150.00	$180.00	$640.00
49	Penelope Setting with Round Stone	5mm round	Prong	Petal	$310.00	$150.00	$170.00	$460.00
50	Scroll Setting Oval	9x7mm or 9x6mm	Prong	Scroll	$200.00	$120.00	$130.00	$250.00
51	Scroll Setting Round 6 Prong with 6mm Stone	6mm	Prong	Scroll	$180.00	$100.00	$110.00	$250.00
52	Scroll Setting Round 4 Prong with 6 mm Stone	6mm	Prong	Scroll	$170.00	$100.00	$110.00	$200.00
53	Scroll Setting Round 6 Prong with 7mm Stone	7mm	Prong	Scroll	$200.00	$110.00	$120.00	$260.00

Price List for Earrings

This is my price list for earrings, the most common studs and danglies, Prices include setting and polishing but DO NOT INCLUDE STONES.

CLASSIC

CONTOUR

GOTHAM

HEXAGON

PETAL

 SCROLL

CUSTOM DESIGN IDEAS

#	Description	Stone Shape	Stone Size	Setting Style	Collection	14K	SS	Platinum
1	Martini Bezel Stud (pink gold not available)	Round	3mm	Martini Bezel	Classic	$140.00	x	x
2	Martini Bezel Stud (pink gold not available)	Round	3.5mm	Martini Bezel	Classic	$145.00	x	x
3	Martini Bezel Stud (pink gold not available)	Round	4mm	Martini Bezel	Classic	$155.00	x	x
4	Martini Bezel Stud (pink gold not available)	Round	5mm	Martini Bezel	Classic	$185.00	x	x
5	Martini Bezel Stud (pink gold not available)	Round	6mm	Martini Bezel	Classic	$240.00	x	x
6	Channel Wire Dangle	Round, pear, Cushion or Oval	1ct ea	Channel Wire Earrings	Contour	$375.00	$275.00	$535.00
7	Small Gotham Earrings Engraved	Oval	6x4mm	Prong	Gotham	$500.00	$140.00	$900.00
8	Small Fan Flower Studs	Round	2mm	Small Fan with Gem	Gotham	$160.00	$100.00	$300.00
9	Connector Part- Gotham	None	x	Large Kite Engraved No Leverback	Gotham	$160.00	$70.00	$220.00
10	Connector Part- Gotham	Round	2mm	Large Kite Engraved with Gem No Leverback	Gotham	$180.00	$90.00	$250.00
11	Connector Part- Gotham	None	x	Fan Engraved No Leverback	Gotham	$120.00	$70.00	$140.00
12	Hexagon Stud	Round	2mm	Pave	Hexagon	$200.00	$100.00	$320.00
13	Hexagon Stud	Round	2.5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$200.00	$100.00	$340.00
14	Hexagon Stud	Round	3mm	Pave	Hexagon	$200.00	$100.00	$340.00
15	Hexagon Stud	Round	3.5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$220.00	$100.00	$360.00
16	Hexagon Stud	Round	4mm	Pave	Hexagon	$240.00	$100.00	$400.00
17	Hexagon Stud	Round	4.5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$260.00	$120.00	$450.00
18	Hexagon Stud	Round	5mm	Pave	Hexagon	$300.00	$120.00	$500.00
19	Hexagon Stud	Round	6mm	Pave	Hexagon	$320.00	$120.00	$600.00
20	2mm Kite Studs	2mm round	2mm	Pave	Hexagon	$180.00	$100.00	$300.00
21	Kite Dangle	Round or Oval	3mm	Kite on oval lever back	Hexagon	$300.00	$120.00	$520.00
22	Kite Dangle	Round or Oval	4mm	Kite on oval lever back	Hexagon	$320.00	$120.00	$640.00
23	Kite Dangle	Round or Oval	5mm	Kite on oval lever back	Hexagon	$350.00	$125.00	$640.00
24	Floral Studs 4mm	Round	4mm	Prong	Petal	$190.00	$100.00	$380.00
25	Floral Studs 5mm	Round	5mm	Prong	Petal	$200.00	$100.00	$380.00
	Floral Studs 6mm	Round	6mm	Prong	Petal	$250.00	$100.00	$440.00
27	Floral Studs 7mm	Round	7mm	Prong	Petal	$260.00	$120.00	$500.00
28	Gatsby Earrings Prong Petal	Trillion	5mm	Trillion, Prong	Petal	$300.00	$120.00	$500.00
29	Smaller 3 Petal Trillium Studs	Round	3x 2mm	Pave	Petal	$300.00	$140.00	$410.00
30	Larger 3 Petal Trillium Studs	Round	2x 3mm, 1 x 2mm	Pave	Petal	$300.00	$140.00	$560.00
31	4 Petal Flower Stud- Small	Round	2mm	Pave	Petal	$300.00	$180.00	$500.00
32	4 Petal Flower Stud- Large	Round	3mm	Pave	Petal	$470.00	$200.00	$890.00
33	5 Petal Flower Setting Engraved	Round	3mm	Pave	Petal	$280.00	$100.00	$560.00
34	8 Petal Earring Jackets	Round	2mm petals, 4mm center stone	Pave	Petal	$450.00	$180.00	$800.00
35	Small Flower Dangle w Kite Connector	Round	2mm	Pave	Petal	$560.00	$230.00	$980.00
36	Petal Dangle	Round	3mm	Pave	Petal	$320.00	$120.00	$580.00
37	Petal Dangle	Round	4mm	Pave	Petal	$350.00	$140.00	$650.00
38	Petal Dangle	Round	5mm	Pave	Petal	$350.00	$140.00	$660.00
39	XS Petal Studs	Round	2mm	Prong	Petal	$180.00	$120.00	$280.00
40	Penelope Earrings Engraved with Round Stone	Round	5mm	Prong	Petal	$480.00	$140.00	$800.00
41	Penelope Earrings Engraved with Oval Stone	Round	6x4mm	Prong	Petal	$620.00	$140.00	$1,200.00
42	Scroll Stud	Round	4mm	4 prong	Scroll	$170.00	$100.00	$300.00
43	Scroll Stud	Round	5mm	4 prong	Scroll	$190.00	$100.00	$320.00
44	Scroll Stud	Round	5mm	6 prong	Scroll	$200.00	$100.00	$340.00
45	Scroll Stud	Round	6mm	4 prong	Scroll	$220.00	$100.00	$380.00
46	Scroll Stud	Round	6mm	6 prong	Scroll	$240.00	$100.00	$420.00

Price List for Station Bracelets

I have designed chain bracelets with stations in either 14K or 18K gold. In 14K you have the choice of yellow, pink or white gold and in 18K gold the options are yellow or white. The price for a 14K 6 inch chain is $80 and the price for 18K is $110. You can then choose from the designs below and add the corresponding price per station, up to a maximum of 3 stations. Prices include setting and polishing but DO NOT INCLUDE STONES.

    

#	Description	Stone Shape	Stone Size	Collection	14K	18K
1	Hexagon	Round	3mm	Hexagon	$100.00	$105.00
2	Hexagon	Round	4mm	Hexagon	$125.00	$135.00
3	Hexagon	Round	5mm	Hexagon	$135.00	$145.00
4	Kite	Round or Oval	3mm	Hexagon	$110.00	$115.00
5	Kite	Round or Oval	4mm	Hexagon	$140.00	$155.00
6	Kite	Round or Oval	5mm	Hexagon	$155.00	$175.00
7	Larger 3 Petal Trillium	Round - Pave	1x2mm, 2x3mm	Petal	$145.00	$155.00
8	Smaller 3 Petal Trillium	Round - Pave	2mm	Petal	$165.00	$180.00
9	4 Petal Flower - Small	Round - Pave	2mm	Petal	$155.00	$160.00
10	4 Petal Flower - Large	Round - Pave	3.5 mm center stone, 3mm outer stones	Petal	$250.00	$285.00
11	5 Petal Flower Setting Engraved	Pave	3mm	Petal	$140.00	$165.00
12	Petal	Round or Oval	3mm	Petal	$115.00	$120.00
13	Petal	Round or pear	4mm	Petal	$110.00	$115.00
14	Petal	Round - Pave	5mm	Petal	$155.00	$170.00

 09.02.2014 Blog Entry "Some Thoughts on the Challenge of Making Custom Quotes

http://cecileraleydesigns.blogspot.com/2014/09/some-thoughts-on-challenge-of-making.html

Now that I have so many gemstones for sale, I get considerably more requests for custom quotes than I did in the past.  And I face new challenges.  I have been thinking that if I share some of these, perhaps I can get some suggestions from you as I develop price lists and a custom form for my new webpage.

               Making a quote minimally involves calculations on the following three factors:

1. Gemstones:  this math is easy if you have picked out your stone, but if I have to multiply out, say, sidestones for a pendant or ring, or diamonds for a halo, then that involves more.  I usually just “ballpark” smaller colored stones (1-2mm sizes) but I have to calculate out diamonds exactly.  Each size and each grade will change the calculation.  So a half pointer G/H VS is different from a 1 pointer G/H SI.

2. Metal cost:  this can be tricky.  It is easiest if I have an existing ring that I can weigh or that is one of my molds, because I have the weights listed in my mold sheet.  Then I multiply by the current gold price. If I have to make the ring from scratch, I have to consult a catalog that gives me the weights of metal strips in different mm sizes and thicknesses.  The weight is usually in 14 K yellow, so that involves conversions if it is platinum or 18k.  For silver I just ballpark because silver is cheap.  Another factor that influences weight is the finger size.  A size 5 is much lighter than a 9.  I have lists for that also, that is, how many mm metal strip I need for which finger size.  With gold, you need to be exact because just ¼ gram in weight can make a big difference.  I also have to calculate some metal loss, or the cost of the sprue, so I add a little % to each calculation.  Finally, settings can vary drastically in price, and there are no price lists that contain every single setting in every single size (for instance, bezels weigh more than prong settings, but some prong settings are more hefty than others, and each mm size makes the setting heavier).  Plus gold prices change every day so when you shop, you pay a % markup on that day’s spot price.  As you get more experienced, you learn to estimate better, and that helps.  But the rule of thumb in the market is not to underestimate because if you cut it too tight, you can very quickly lose money, especially when your markup is low (mine is very low by industry standard).

Metal Strip Price List for 10K Flat Wire

3. Labor: labor breaks down into several categories.  If it is a casting, then you add casting labor.  That’s only a few dollars, so that’s good.  If you have to make a mold, you add that in.  If there is 3-C printing or CAD work involved, that’s another price depending on the time it takes to make it.  If there is soldering, I have a rough idea of what each type of soldering costs and I add that in. Then there is setting labor.  Setting labor depends on stone size, bezel or prong, millgrain or pave.  And of course the number of stones.  So a ring with 12 sidestones that are 2mm, with a 6 mm center, pave, can be very different from a 3 stone ring that’s prong set.  Finally, you have to add polishing and plating costs (i.e. rhodium). 

Sample Page from Settings Catalog - Look at all those Sizes and there are Pages and Pages of this Stuff

Now this was the simple calculation.  When you get to a complicated CAD design then often you have to make a 2-D or even 3D rough drawing before you can get the pricing exact.  That means the customer has to be very specific about what she wants, or provide me with a budget first, otherwise the back and forth can be endless.  And if I have to send out 3 possible quotes involving three design alterations, I can easily be sitting for an hour just to do the math.

At the very end, I add my wholesale markup, which has to account for the following factors: my own time and labor which involves quotes, photos, seeing the order through, all customer communications, shipping time.  I work approximately 40 hrs a week just running the shop.  Then there is assistant’s overall time helping with the shop, shipping costs, overhead (computer cost, travel to NY, electric, etc), Etsy cost, PayPal or Direct Checkout cost, as well as development costs when I make new designs, putting orders together, accounting costs, and costs for items not sold, items wasted, items broken (not negligible!).  What does that add up to?  Very very minimally, you have to double your cost once you’ve worked out the initial item cost.  But a safer calculation is x1.2-1.5 depending on how much your other costs are.  Everyone in industry – just about any industry – tells you that even for wholesale, if you don’t do at least double, you will go under.  I frequently get chided by people for not being careful with my own costs, and I’m not saying this to make you feel guilty!  My shop does very well but I work hard for that.

Complicated enough for you?  Now you know why custom shops usually charge so much money.  By the time the customer is satisfied and the numbers are correct, you can have spent more time than it takes to actually make the piece.  Well, I’m overstating of course, but it is definitely more involved than what meets the eye.  That’s why so many shops just have basic designs and price lists based on those, as opposed to making everything to order.

03.16.2014 Blog Entry "Custom Orders Revisted"

See http://cecileraleydesigns.blogspot.com/2014/03/custom-orders-revisited.html for the unedited version.

Last year my gemstone category outsold every other category I have on Etsy.  As a result, I have gotten a lot more custom order requests. This is loads of fun, but way more time consuming - plus many quotes don't go anywhere. This is because on the customer's part, there is the experience of sticker shock. What makes custom work so ridiculously expensive?  

Well, the average labor cost for jewelry work in my area is about $50 per hour. And if i don't do the work myself - I often don't because I don't have the time or the expertise - then that's not money I make. My earnings are incorporated into my markup formula. That's why so many jewelers manufacture overseas. But I like supporting local artisanship and I don't like not having any control over what happens with my designs and my gems. Nor would my customers like it.

Making a five stone ring from scratch, for instance, can take 3 hours if done from scratch. The channel wire pieces that are so popular in my shop take about an hour.   My CAD designer charges $50 per hour, 3D printing can cost $20-80 depending on the size of the piece.

Made For Tracy: 3 Hex Bezels Soldered 
Together Plus Bail

Made for Julie, Using Channel Wire & Petal Sertting

Adding all that up, a custom design might cost a few hundred dollars before any materials and before markup.  So let's discuss markup. What is that for, and why is it 2-2.5 x cost for wholesale and double that for retail? Take my case. I do Etsy 40 hrs a week minimum and that's not making any jewelry. 

I also pay my assistant for 2-3 full days. Not making jewelry. What do we do? Photos, listings, convos (oodles and oodles of convos), quotes, bookkeeping, shipping. That's the work at home, 20 hrs minimum. Then we buy supplies, pick up castings, place orders, wait for pre polish, take the pieces home, inspect, fit the gems, pack each order for setting, go to the jeweler that helps me (or the engraver, or the wax carver), pick up and drop off from setting, inspect again, drop off for electro plating, or final polish, or get rhodium done. Inspect again. That's 2 full days each week with lots of waiting at suppliers when it's busy, or waiting to have a bill done, go over each item. I work on 20-30 items each week. So it's a ton of running around, the convo system always going off in my iPhone.

Made for Lynne, Channel Wire and Hex Bezel

Let me throw in one more piece of the puzzle: pieces that don't sell and new items you want to produce. That costs money. Production and development that's called. It's so you can grow. But you can't grow unless you have extra profit worked into your formula.  

Made for Julia, Hex Bezels and Rose Gold Chain

11.03.13 Blog Entry "Tricks and Tips for Designing in CAD"

For the unedited version, go to http://cecileraleydesigns.blogspot.com/2013/11/tricks-and-tips-for-designing-in-cad.html

When I don't carry the item you'd like to have or I have to "adapt" an item for a different stone size, I have a CAD file made.  When designs are complicated or a very specific stone size is needed, a CAD design is cheaper than metal work, and it is reproducible and adjustable.  On average, a CAD design takes 1-2 hours, unless it is just a simple setting. But CAD doesn’t work well for flowy designs, and the geometry for certain shapes is incredibly complicated.  The more curves, ridges, settings, the more detail in other words, the longer it takes. 

Wedding Band CAD with Di

After that, the CAD model has to be “printed” in resin or in wax ($80 on average for a ring), then cast in base metal and pre finished ($30), then molded ($20), then again cast in the desired metal.  

Since CAD works on a mathematical basis, we need very specific info and specs, and we may need to make changes if the design is not feasible.  Most importantly, I have to scan each stone so that the setting can be made for it exactly.  And we need to work out the depth needed underneath the seat for the culet of the gem (only diamonds have standard dimensions).  

This Cluster Ring is not Done Because We're Working on the Gallery , Often the Hardest Part

 Since millgrain and beaded setting, or any engraving, is done after printing, the CAD can often look very different from the finished design.

My Victorian Flower Earrings Before
Setting

A Finished Design with the Same Setting

Sometimes other impracticalities intrude that have to be considered.  A finger is too small to support several stones in a row, or sizing will be an issue later.  Eternity bands have to be done for each size for instance, and in each case you have to change the design a little.  It is also impossible to make a particular design bigger or smaller by changing just one thing, usually the entire design has to be adjusted (a new CAD has to be made).  This means that certain changes in size necessitate many other changes down the line. 

Finally, one has to project what problems might come up in casting.  The ring I made (below) cannot be cast in one piece because the silicone could not get underneath the ring.  So Brandy made a gallery, lifted the top and made two designs that have to be assembled after casting.  Also, since you can’t cast in two metals at once, any two tone designs require two models that have to be fitted together and assembled.

Shank is Too Narrow
(The Thing on the Right is the Sprue)

Top is Too Thick, Needs a Galllery

Can't Mold in One Piece